Thursday, September 29, 2011

Perfection ... Little House on the River


Who knew an hour and a half away was a place that Betty Lou “could just stay forever?”

Hammerhaid suspected it when he first spotted “The Little House on The River” on the Web. Oh, she was wanting to travel … drive, drive, drive. While ol’ H-haid was wanting to loaf.

But all of those somewhat far away sites were already booked for the long three-day weekend. Hammerhaid didn’t even consider grinning about this location, because she wasn’t happy. Her mood didn’t change during the drive, which followed a long day at work.

It was completely dark when they arrived. Even the normally perfect GPS system in Ruby, the red Honda truck, had let them down. Sigh!

Her dark mood soon lifted upon arrival.

Hammerhaid heard the sound of running water as he carefully ventured around the little house and flipped on the lights.

Giggling, she bounded into the structure and began a chorus of “uhhhhs and ahhs.”

“It’s perfect,” she exclaimed. And she was right.

The hints of perfection proved true at daylight. Log onto littlehouseontheriver.com if you don’t believe it.

Wow, what is better than perfection? This little house and its surroundings!

How so?

To begin with, the Little House is exactly that. It’s not a cabin. It is a perfect little home measuring 624 square feet with front and back porches that run the length of the house. It’s divided into a living room/kitchen with a bedroom and bathroom. Nice and quiet with plenty of light flowing into the dwelling.

Outside, there’s more than 1,300 feet of riverside frontage. It’s on the clean, spring-fed Rocky River. Beautiful!

Betty Lou and Hammerhaid spent many hours outdoors sitting in a rocker or enjoying a swing. They even waded in the clear stream. So relaxing!

We didn’t venture out, but Little House is near a number of attractions including Rock Island State Park, Cumberland Caverns and Foglight Food House. All of those await the next visit which…don’t tell Betty Lou…but that perfect little house is where we will spend our 3rd anniversary!

By the way, the owners of Little House are delightful. Debby and Joe are delights to work with. They even give one of their beautiful lilies to each visitor. Their guides to the cabin are perfect and share the many nearby attractions.

Make the trip and let us know what you think, we think you will agree….it's just PERFECT!

By the ol' mill stream ... at Readyville


Once upon a time, ol’ Hammerhaid had kinfolk who worked at the Readyville Mill.

But that was a long, long time ago before “progress” nearly erased the historic structure.

Built in 1870, this Readyville Mill was operated by a succession of people until it closed in 1978.

In 2006, Tomm and Martha Brady purchased the mill and began its continuing restoration. The Bradys reopened it in 2009 and now it is growing in popularity as a venue for weddings and other events.

So was it a wedding that attracted Hammerhaid and Betty Lou there?

Nope, no sir. Heck, no. It was breakfast and what a wonderful meal it was.

Now don’t go to Readyville Mill on a Wednesday, Monday or Sunday expecting a meal.

Breakfast is served ONLY on Saturdays from 8 a.m. to 12:30 p.m.

You better show up early or get a reservation by calling 615-563-6455.

So what’s on the menu?

Hmmmmm, the Eatery is located at a mill. Am I not right?

That means the top items on the menu are pancakes, stone-ground flour and corncakes.

Hammerhaid’s father came along on this outing and he had first pick. After studying the menu for a second, “Pa” selected the whole-wheat pancakes with blueberries. Did I mention the bacon and stone-ground grits? Delish!

Betty Lou copied Pa, but passed on the grits, selecting fresh fruit instead.

Hammerhaid, for once, had to be different and ordered biscuits and gravy.

Normally, a little sharing goes on, but not this day. Betty Lou and Pa hogged those beautiful pancakes covered with their savory homemade blueberry sauce. Must mention that she did share a strip of bacon, which was hickory smoked. Hammerhaid loved it.

Hammerhaid didn’t share his gravy and biscuits. The gravy was loaded with sausage and had tons of real flavor. The biscuits were made of stone-ground whole-wheat flour and were very filling when topped with gravy.

But he did share a little bite of a surprise addition to his plate. The little quiche was out of this world. “Oh wow,” was Betty Lou’s sincere comment upon tasting the quiche.

Fantastic! It was a great, unrushed breakfast with friendly service.

Tomm invited us to tour the mill after breakfast. It wasn’t a guided tour. We got the chance to explore the 1870’s structure.

Hammerhaid and Pa (particularly) were mill veterans. Pa, in the days of his youth, would ride a mule carrying a tow sack full of dried corn all the way through Woodbury to have it ground into meal.

Pa showed Betty Lou the old grist stones used to grind the corn and told her how the miller used an iron chisel to renew the worn-down stones.

After touring the mill, we then walked around the grounds covered with beautiful flowers ranging from colorful zinnias to the unusual Hummingbird vine.

The Readyville Mill is located at 5418 Murfreesboro Road, Readyville, TN 37129 and is just east of the Readyville Post Office.

Monday, May 16, 2011

Cool jazz at Arrington Vineyards



It took out-of-town visitors to bring it about, but we finally visited Arrington Vineyards.

That one trip convinced us that “wow, we have really been missing out.”

Just a quick trip on state route 840, the vineyards are so beautiful, peaceful, but lively. You have to visit to understand what we’re talking about.

To top it off, Music in the Vines is free. Yep, there’s no charge for an afternoon or evening of beautiful music on the rural hillside of little Arrington, a small community between Murfreesboro and Franklin.

And it is not just a one-time, spring event. Arrington Vineyards plays host to Music in the Vines every Friday, Saturday and Sunday through mid December. Hours are 5 to 9 p.m. Friday and Saturday and from 2 to 6 p.m. on Sundays rain or shine.

Jim Michie filled the cool spring day with melodic jazz … all beautiful and bright.

We got there early before the lines for the wine tasting got too long. We got to choose four flavors. I selected two white wines and two reds. Betty Lou selected four whites. I liked the Stag’s White 2009 best, while she preferred the May wine of the month, the Riesling 2009.

Naturally, after tasting the wines, we just had to buy a bottle and some other knick-knacks. Hey, after all, we were playing tourists along with Betty Lou’s “auntie” Virginia and her friend Judy who were visiting from Michigan.

It was the perfect end to a day of antiquing.

Because it had been so rainy early in the day, we had opted not to take a picnic meal along with us. So we instead enjoyed some great cheese and crackers along with a bottle of Riesling.

Country music artist Kix Brooks of Brooks and Dunn fame founded the vineyard. While we didn’t see him, he is often present at Arrington events.

Brooks and Ronnie Dunn are the biggest selling duo in the history of country music with sales topping 23 million records. Earlier this year, Brooks and Dunn announced they were going solo.

We were early enough to land a spot on the winery’s deck, but the area is surrounded by picnic tables and tree swings. All of which are perfect to enjoy an afternoon or evening of music and fun.

For cooler weather, a nice, native stone fireplace heats the deck and there’s a bonfire available in a huge, nearby pit.
With the music and conversation, the vineyard is a tranquil, but fun-filled place that’s perfect for family groups and romantic couples.

Next time, we’re packing a picnic and spending the evening listening to jazz.








Saturday surprise at Center Hill Lake

Hungry? Yes, we were.

Fortunately, we were near Center Hill Lake, a location where we have shared some great meals in the past.

We headed to a lakeside eatery where we had dined upon occasion, but it seemed strangely deserted. Was it closed? Or maybe it was out of business?

Didn’t get a chance to find out because Betty Lou was behind the wheel. She jetted on by as I twiddled with the onboard navigation system. Not too far down the roadway, she spotted a sign advertising Barbara’s Cedar House Restaurant.

“What do you think?” she asked as she ducked down Johnson Chapel Road. “Was that it?” I asked as we whirled past a log and board-type structure. It looked a little too friendly to be just a lakeside tavern.

But she didn’t stop. Betty Lou had spotted the signs for a lakeside park. Ah-ha, she was looking for a public restroom. We found them and they were padlocked. Her need overcame the beauty of the spot which would have been lovely for a picnic. Except….Except we didn’t bring any food.

Suddenly, we were back in the truck and heading back out Johnson Chapel Road.

This time she didn’t ignore the sign on the front of Barbara’s Cedar House, but it looked deserted despite the sign proclaiming that the cafĂ© was indeed open. We parked the truck and walked up the long porch.

Hmmmm, it was open and we were greeted by a dark-haired woman who we soon discovered was Barbara McHugh. Barbara and her husband John own the restaurant.

Hammerhaid reviewed the menu while Betty Lou dallied. It was amazingly diverse and boasted quite a spred of seafood and a number of unusual items including German (make that Bavarian) dishes.

Beef roulade, sauerbraten, schnitzle, spaetzgle and bratwurst at a rural Tennessee restaurant? It didn’t make sense, so Hammerhaid and Betty Lou ordered a typical of cheeseburgers, fries and onion rings.

While waiting on their orders, Betty Lou took the opportunity to chat with Barbara about her origins.

Come to find out that both Barbara and her husband hail from Chicago where Barbara had been involved in the restaurant business for years. Their chef, inexplicably, comes from New England where he specialized in Bavarian cookery.

Hmmmmm, Hammerhaid was beginning to regret ordering a cheeseburger instead of a Chicago-style hotdog.

However, the regret soon passed with the delivery of his burger. It was a double-decker loaded with cheese. Delicious! The fries were hot and crunchy too. And the onion rings were so good that Betty Lou was reluctant to share.

So-o-o-o-o, we’re ready to head back.

For more information and a map on how to find it, check out barbarascedarhouse.com


Thursday, February 24, 2011

What a birthday surprise!!!!



The Windsor Hotel.


When it comes to celebrating birthdays, few people can surpass Betty Lou.

Oh, we're not talking about her birthday. She would rather forget about them ... or at least that's what she claims.

I am referring, specifically, to my recent birthday. She had been planning the occasion for weeks, if not months. All she would tell me was "it's a surprise."

As the date approached I was advised that I would have to pack for an undisclosed location.

I suspected our trip might be to Cedars of Lebanon State Park ... or maybe Chattanooga ... hmmmmmm, perhaps Gatlinburg? The destination was a big part of the surprise.

Naturally, I was wrong. We started out on I-24 heading towards Chattanooga, but we didn't even stop for our usual restroom break outside of town. Could we be headed to Atlanta? Plenty of things to see and do there besides fight the traffic.

Naturally, our truck "Ruby" was leading the way with her map system. About halfway though Atlanta "Ruby" went a bit berserk recommending that we exit I-75 and take the bypass.

Caught by this dilemma, Betty Lou 'fessed up. We were going to Americus, Ga. to stay in a haunted hotel near a Civil War site where lots of prisoners were held.

Hmmmmm, let me see. Americus...President Jimmy Carter...Habitat for Humanity. After we struggled with the traffic for a long time, it finally hit me. Betty Lou was talking about Andersonville, the infamous prison camp where thousands of Union soldiers died of starvation and disease.

Wow, I had wanted to go there for years.

"Ruby's" detour added two or three hours to our journey, so it was late when we arrived in Americus. They had already rolled up the streets, but we made it to our destination.

It was a beautifully restored historic spot, the Windsor Hotel. Established in 1892, the castle-like building was restored and reopened in 1991.

Wow, we were tired from our travels, but the beauty of the hotel revived us as we checked in and headed to our room on the third floor.

I barely listened to the hotel clerk and the fact were going to visit Andersonville hadn't really clicked in yet. I was ready to get to our room. Grabbing the luggage, we headed to the third floor.

Watching my footwork on the beautiful hardwood floor, I barely noticed a couple sitting near our room. The woman was turned away from me and she was talking ... she was talking to Brian, Betty Lou's brother.

It was Brian and his wife Cathie. I couldn't have been more surprised. They had traveled up from Florida to join our adventure.

We were still laughing when we checked out our beautiful room and headed to the Hotel's bar, Floyd's Pub. We were too late for food, but the bar was very festive and obviously the place for action in that quiet Georgia town.

Eventually, we settled in. The bed was very comfortable. Too bad someone snores like a chain saw. (I won't mention any names...)

A beautiful morning soon dawned and we were off to a wonderful breakfast in the Windsor Hotel's restaurant. The cheese grits were fabulous! And so was the omelet.

It was a beautiful, clear morning and soon we were off to the beautiful, somber Andersonville memorial.

Wednesday, February 23, 2011

POWs remembered at Andersonville




South of Atlanta is one of America's most interesting war memorials.

Called the National Prisoner of War Museum, the facility pays tribute to those gallant warriors held captive by the USA'S enemies throughout the last 200-plus years.

Located at Andersonville, Ga., the museum is starkly beautiful despite its somewhat forboding exterior. Yes, it looks somewhat like a prison, but the lessons offered inside tell the sad and sometimes triumphrant story of American prisoners of war.

The exhibits began with a graphic answer to the question "What is a POW?" This dramatic depiction is followed by areas telling stories of capture, horrible living conditions and the many ways captured soldiers shared news among their ranks.

Shared equally is the story of families and loved ones who waited at home often times for years -- other times in vain -- to hear of their soldiers' fate.

One of the most touching exhibits is a series of videos telling the story of Vietnam POWs and their families over the years. Some of those stories had happy endings with the soldiers returning home after as long as eight years. Others recounted years of waiting with no final resolution other than the dreaded knock on the front door.

A number of exhibits are the "treasures" made in the camps by the imprisoned soldiers. Most are simple devices made from sprigs of wire, fabric or shoe leather ...items that made their lives a bit more bearable. Others, like a tiny American flag, helped them maintain their pride during the long, hazardous days of imprisonment.

While located at a Civil War site, the POW museum deals with all American wars with special emphasis placed on World War II, Vietnam and more recent conflicts including Iraq and Afghanistan.

It is a quiet, reverent place that quiets even normally loud batallions of Boy Scouts.

There are many lessons to learn there, so take your time to study everything including the pull-out drawers that tell the story of valiant POWs. Sit aside at least two hours. We spent four or more and still didn't see everything in this well thought-out museum.

Be sure to watch the visitors' center film. We saw "Echoes of Captivity," a 27 minute introduction to the experience of prisoners of war throughout American history.

Andersonville snd the POW museum are located in southwest Georgia. The park is approximately 12 miles north of Americus and 11 miles south of Montezuma on GA-49.




.

Saturday, February 13, 2010

Valentine's Eve in Watertown



Jimmy strikes a pose behind the counter at Lulu's Coffee House in Watertown.


The temperature was cold, but spirits high as we cruised into little Watertown for Liquid Crawl with displays by local artists mixed with some pre-Valentine's Day wine for good measure.

Watertown, Tenn., a little off the beaten track, is located in Wilson County about 30 minutes from Murfreesboro. It's a little town with a good deal of historic pride in its arts heavy downtown.

We kicked off our visit with a stop at Lulu's Coffee House for a spot of dinner. It came highly recommended by the owner of Dead Man's General Store, one of the unique stops on Watertown's little public square.

I had a great black bean burger with chedder cheese. Fantastic! Nicely prepared and very flavorable. Betty Lou, surprise...surprise, ordered a grilled cheese on multi-grain bread with cheddar and swiss cheese. I didn't get to sample it. We each had a cup of great freshly brewed coffee.

Thus fortified, we headed back to the square for the Liquid Crawl and displays by local photographers and artists. While, I enjoyed the displays Betty Lou kept saying we needed to head across the street to this little bakery, the Kake Haus. It quickly proved to be the hit of the night.

Owned by Duane and Kelly Schmelhaus, Kake Haus Pastry Shop was filled with shelf after shelf of delectable breads, cakes and pastries.

Located at 404 Public Square in Watertown, Kake Haus has a web site that hints at the quality of treats available at the unique shop. It's www.kakehaus.com.

Duane is a CIA man...yep, Culinary Institute of America located in Hyde Park, New York.

A Cleveland, Ohio native, Duane is the latest in a multi-generation family of bakers. His great-grandfather opened his bakery in 1910 in Cleveland with his sons following in his footsteps.

And what did we buy there?

Let's see ... short bread cookies, a chocolate crumb cake, delightful chocolate brownies and a loaf of sun-dried tomato bread. I hope I get a taste.

Tuesday, April 28, 2009

Lighthouse Landing Marina ... our perfect spot




It might sound a bit crazy when we say one of our favorite places to visit is Kentucky Lake.

After all, we don’t own as much as an inflatable dingy. Hammerhaid does have a life vest in case he trips in the kiddie pool (that’s a story for another time.)

But Betty Lou was raised on the water and her father was an avid sailor. No “stink boats” for him during his sweet, silent journeys on the Gulf of Mexico.

So it was with a certain reluctance that Hammerhaid took her to a certain spot. He was reluctant because he knew he should have taken her there long ago.

“Promise you won’t hit me, when we go around this curve.”

She didn’t promise, but she didn’t strike out either. She instead demanded, “stop here ... park it.” She didn’t buy his suggestion that they eat first.

That certain spot was Lighthouse Landing Marina in Grand Rivers, Ky. The little bay was loaded with sailboats, including a number that were 40 feet or longer.

She was in heaven.

That adventure was some time ago and we love to visit Grand Rivers, a little town that touches both Kentucky Lake and Lake Barkley.

Grand Rivers is perhaps best known as the home of Patti’s 1880s Settlement, one of the most popular eateries in the Southeast. Read about it in our blog.

Grand Rivers is located in Western Kentucky on beautiful Kentucky Lake, 1 mile north of the Land Between the Lakes. Take exit 31 off I-24 and go 3 miles on Hwy 453 to Grand Rivers, KY, the “Village Between the Lakes.”

While Patti’s wonderful food and deserts temporarily distracted Betty Lou, the underlying message remained clear. She wanted to stay at one of the little cabins at Lighthouse Landing Marina.

She finally got her wish. We spent our much to abbreviated honeymoon there.

Absolute perfection!

“I could absolutely live here,” she said. And she absolutely meant it this time.

The cabin was perfect and almost like a sailboat thanks to its nautical-themed furnishings. It was snug, compact but with plenty of room for two. Every detail was well thought out and executed.

“I adore this kitchen. It’s tiny, but perfect with stove, refrigerator and even a dishwasher. This is absolutely all you need,” she said.

The kitchen was stocked, not with food, but utensils even for the microwave. Off the kitchen was a tiny, but nice bath with shower and tons of towels.

The single bedroom was roomy with queen-sized bed, dining table, Jacuzzi-tub (with a porthole window), a big comfy chair, a bureau and (to Hammerhaid’s delight) cable TV.

“Oh, I COULD live here,” Betty Lou, repeated with gusto.

And Hammerhaid had to agree.

But perhaps the true gem was the deck overlooking Kentucky Lake. The weather was brisk, but not unpleasant for sitting into the two Adirondack chairs and watching the sunset.

When the fog rolled in, it was a spectacular place to be. Then it rained. It wasn’t a storm, but you could hear the raindrops on the metal roof of the cabin. The shower cleared and there were fireworks on the opposite bank.

Idyllic. Quiet with no sounds other than Mother Nature with birdcalls, fish splashing and the lapping of the lake. There was the occasional distant hum of tugboats pushing barges.

Did we mention the grills and picnic tables at all the cabins?

What a wonderful, lakeside community! Naturally, it bustles during the summer with visitors when there can be a wait at Patti’s. But there’s no push and shove.

The village has other restaurants, an IGA grocery and just enough shops for browsing even in the off-season.

In addition to the lovely cabins, Lighthouse Landing has sailboat rental and sailing classes.

Now, the only question that remains is when is Betty Lou going to sign up Hammerhaid for those sailing lessons and finally put that expensive life vest to use.

http://www.grandrivers.com/

http://www.grandrivers.com/links/lighthouse.htm

Thursday, May 1, 2008

Falcon Rest makes the Civil War fun



Falcon Rest mansion is the site of a new Civil War play featuring, George and Charlien McGlothin.


Betty Lou just didn’t believe it. It is possible to have fun and learn something about the Civil War at the same time.

To top it off, she made her dramatic “debut” at the same time.

And where did this miracle take place? Falcon Rest mansion in McMinnville, TN.

George and Charlien McGlothin premiered their latest production: "The Honeymoon Ball of Gen. John Hunt Morgan … His Last Happy Day" on the weekend of April 25-26 in McMinnville, the nursery capital of the world.

“The Honeymoon Ball” is the latest in a series of interactive plays written by the funny, talented couple.

Interactive? Yes, the folks in the audience play small roles in the performance with George starring as famous Confederate raider John Hunt Morgan and Charlien as famous writer/poet Virginia French.

“I don’t do this. I refused to do this. There’s no way I am going to do this,” announced Betty Lou when she discovered the nature of the play.

But a scant couple of hours later, there was Betty Lou accepting her part as Mrs. Poindexter, the wife of a Presbyterian minister who prepared the feast for the honeymoon ball.

Ol’ Hammerhaid was surprised by her performance and was absolutely shocked that she knew the words to “Dixie.”

As for his part, Hammerhaid was typecast as the huge, glowering Confederate “terrorist” Champ Ferguson complete with plastic Bowie knife.

We’re not talking high drama here, but the presentation was based on accurate history, which pleased the Civil War buff in Hammerhaid.

“Think of it as a Civil War version of Hee-Haw,” explained the McGlothin’s daughter, who shared a table with us along with a doctor from Utah.

“When you say we get visitors from around the world, it is literally true,” said George during a tour of the grounds.

Falcon Rest, located in a peaceful country setting just outside of McMinnville, was built by Clay Faulkner for his wife and five children in 1896-97. The 10,000 sq. ft. Queen Anne mansion was state-of-the-art for the late Victorian period with indoor plumbing and was wired for electricity.

Later the home was converted into a hospital, the Faulkner Springs Hospital and Sanitarium and functioned as such until 1968. The house stood vacant until 1983 when Joe Grissom purchased it and began restoration. The McGlothins purchased the house and finished its basic restoration in 1993.

“It is still a work in progress,” George explained, adding that he and Charlien did the restoration work.

“To see him in the hot summer sun chipping plaster off the bricks was unbelievable,” daughter said.

In 1997, Falcon Rest won the National Trust for Historic Preservation’s “Great American Home Award” for their restoration efforts.

We stayed in the lovely Carriage Room, adjacent to the Victorian Carriage House at the rear of the mansion.

“Is it purple?” Hammerhaid asked.
“No, it’s mauve,” corrected Betty Lou. “Wow, what a bedroom suite!”
The Victorian Rennaisance-style bed is 9-1/2 feet tall ... beautiful. It was balanced by a wonderful settee and beautiful velvet curtains made by Charlien.

The 16 x16-foot room has a private entrance and great view of Falcon Rest's grounds. It was quiet and romantic. There was a cozy table for two which was perfect for in-room dining. The adjoining private bath featured Betty Lou’s favorite, an antique claw-foot tub.

Betty Lou had only one little quibble ... the bed was too firm for her.

“You should have never slept on that space-age foam mattress in Chattanooga,” Hammerhaid laughed. “It ruined you for normal beds.”

“Maybe you’re right,” she admitted.

She loved the settee though.

“That’s a real surprise. I always thought those would be uncomfortable, but it’s perfect,” she said as she settled down with a selection of books and magazines from the room’s large selection.

“Wow, what a great selection of channels,” Hammerhaid exclaimed, as he checked out the TV. “I could live here forever.”

We were both pleased with the food.

The play came with dinner based upon the menu for the original ball. The ham stuffed with turkey was unusual and was delectable as was the old-fashioned corn pudding. The delicate sno-white cake was fantastic.

Breakfast, served in our room the next morning, was fabulous as well with a delicious sausage and cheese omlet, biscuits with honey butter and fresh mixed fruits. Betty Lou is still going on about the apple turnovers.

“The best I’ve ever had,” she said.

The gift shop was fun too with items reflecting a historical theme. There was a mixture of “fun” items and beautiful jewelry with a great selection of music boxes.

“It’s part of what I like to is in keeping with Falcon Rest’s theme as ‘the Victorian mansion where history is fun,’” George said.

We enjoyed our visit and are already talking about attending the “Ghost in the Mansion” production at Falcon Rest.

“Ghost in the Mansion?”

Oh, yes, there are numerous ghost stories associated with the mansion, but that’s another adventure.

Where is Falcon Rest?

It's halfway between Nashville & Chattanooga, 25 miles east of I-24 at Manchester Exit 111.
33 miles south of I-40 from Smithville Exit 273, between Nashville and Knoxville.

2645 Faulkner Springs Road
McMinnville, TN 37110
931-668-4444
Web Site: www.falconrest.com
E-mail: falconrest@falconrest.com

Thursday, March 6, 2008

Quick trip leads to Gator Burger delight



There was a mere hint of spring in the air, so Hammerhaid decided a trip to the “home country” was in order.

Besides Betty Lou was in need of a breather after playing host to a baby shower. Yep, her daughter Michelle is due anytime and it’s gonna be the first girl. So-o-o-o-o-o-o, there’s more than a little excitement brewing.

A short trip, a very short trip, was in order.

“I don’t want to be more than an hour away,” Betty Lou insisted.

“So where are your clod-hoppers?” he asked.

“My blue hiking boots? I have no idea,” she said.

Hammerhaid dug them up and off they headed to rural Cannon County between Short Mountain and Blues Hill. (Nope, it’s not all that hilly, but it is the Home Country.)

By the time they got there, it was snowing ever so slightly. It was a perfect time for a walk through the fields and woods. Hammerhaid didn’t even work up a sweat.

After a nice, long hike, he revealed his true intentions. “Think we have time for a Billy Burger?” he asked.

“I was just thinking of that,” Betty Lou confessed.

It was just a hop, skip and a jump over to the McMinnville Highway (US 70S), past various nurseries, along side the McMinnville Airport to Newtown, a little wide spot on the road just before Mc-Town. That’s the low profile home of “Billy’s Restaurant,” owned by Billy Foutch.

Billy’s is the home of the Gator Burger.

“It is probably the best hamburger in Middle Tennessee,” Hammerhaid said. “It’s nothing fancy, just absolute perfection with two hand-patted beef patties covered with cheese and served on a toasted bun with fresh lettuce, tomato, union and the condiments of your choice.”

Each burger is a labor of love for Mr. Billy.

“I’ve never seen anyone but Billy manning the grill,” he added. “The restaurant has a wide menu with everything from breakfast to T-bone steaks for dinner.”

And when Hammerhead gets stuck on a menu item, he usually won’t order anything else. So it’s a Gator Burger with fries for him.

Betty Lou being “oh, so much more adventuresome” ordered her usual Gator Burger, but got freaky and ordered onion rings. Good choice! The H-man discovered he likes the onion rings more than the crispy, krinkle cut fries. Fortunately, BL shared.

Billy’s Restaurant, you won’t find it on the Internet, serves a variety of short-order dishes at his new, clean-as-a-pin restaurant just off 70s. The imperceptiably slow widening of the roadway connecting McMinnville to Woodbury to Murfreesboro and ultimately to Nashville nearly closed Billy’s a few years back, but he just relocated slightly and expanded his operation.

Billy's Restaurant , 2822 Nashville Highway, McMinnville, TN 37110 (931) 668-9987.

For the scenic route from Murfreesboro, take John Bragg Highway (70S) through Woodbury and Centertown to McMinnville. The restaurant will be located on your left after Robinson Road and before you get to McMinnville’s bypass.

“I’m gonna try the chuckwagon sandwich next time,” Hammerhead swears.

Liar.

“The real question is why such a UT fan has anything to do with a Gator Burger?” Betty Lou said.

Monday, February 18, 2008

Valentine's treat at B. McNeel's


Too often, the old work schedule doesn't permit us to get out of town for even a few hours.

But that doesn't really matter, because Murfreesboro is the center of an increasing number of great places to go for fine dining, fun nightspots or great shopping.

One of the best is B. McNeel's Restaurant located on Church Street just off the Historic Square. Betty Lou enjoyed a surprise belated Valentine's dinner there Saturday.

"Where are we going Saturday night?" she asked. "Wait, don't tell me I want to guess ... you don't have to tell me which guess is right, just that I got one right. wait, I know, I will write down where I think it is and then show you I was right."

That's Betty Lou, always up for a game. But, Betty Lou always seems to change the rules, like tonight; she was excited and could not wait to see if she had printed the correct address so she started asking questions!

"Five Seasons?" she asked.

That was a good suggestion, but wrong. "The Parthenon" was guess number two. Her two guesses quickly multiplied and by the time we were driving down West College Street, she had guessed correctly.
The exterior of B. McNeel's is so festive and inviting much more so than chain restaurants. Proprietor Barbara Thomas makes sure of that with fresh, tasty food and great service.

We enjoyed a bottle of Fetzers Chardonnay. "They pay attention to detail with everything served at the proper temperature." I know, red goes with steak but Betty Lou likes white, and it was Valentines Day so she got her way.

We had the bruschetta, which was flavorful and very fresh. "I don't know where they find tomatoes that are so wonderful this time of year," she said.

We skipped the salad course in an attempt to save space for dessert.

For the main course, we both selected the Jack Daniels strip steak, which was beautifully prepared. The sliced, tender meat top a layer of roasted potatoes, which soaked up that wonderfully sweet Jack Daniels sauce. The steak was topped by a generous serving of onion straws that were cooked to perfection.

Other favorites include the Creamy Chicken Marsala, Five Pepper Chicken and the Teriyaki Beef Medallions.

Unfortunately, there was no room for dessert, not even the crème brulee, which just might be the best in town.

B. McNeel's is one of Murfreesboro's most intimate and romantic restaurants. During warm weather, its patio draws a nice crowd.

It is located in a building that once housed the telephone company. In later decades it was home of Miller and Loughry Insurance. It has nice brickwork and molding that reflects the structure's age and has a "club-like" feeling, particularly upstairs in what we refer to as the library.

In a day when most restaurants have a first-come, first-served policy, B. McNeel's accepts reservations. They also have a great Sunday brunch for $12.95 for adults that includes made to order pancakes, omelets and eggs benedict.

It's located at 215 N Church St., Murfreesboro, TN 37130, next to the Rutherford County Center for the Arts. Phone: (615) 896-1002

http://www.bmcneels.com/

Thursday, February 14, 2008

A visit to Shaker Museum in Kentucky



Sometimes, Hammerhead is just full of little surprises for Betty Lou. Like last weekend when the sky was beautiful blue and he knew they were both needing some "road time”

Anytime we get back on the road Betty Lou has to sing that same old song. You know the one...."on the road again, just can’t wait to get on the road again" and that is all Betty Lou ever remembers so I finish it off with a hound dog howl. We both laugh and into the wild blue yonder we head.

Betty Lou was slightly surprised when instead of heading east like the last few trips, the ol’ compass pointed due north.

“Do you have absolutely any idea where we are going?” she asked. Are we going to Lexington?
Maybe, was all the H-man said. That usually means I have something in mind, but no real idea how to get there.

“Are we headed to Bowling Green?” Betty Lou asked, noting the signs along I-65.

“In that general direction, but more in the boonies,” I explained. (I could tell by her face she thought it smelled like an obscure Civil War site to her.)

Well anyway, Betty Lou was enjoying the drive on a sunny, slightly crisp Saturday morning. Blue sky and open road is all she ever needs to start feeling relaxed again. There was some swearing and a little backtracking (which always makes her laugh) on my part before I could announce, “Ah ha!”

I had discovered a little sign proclaiming South Union near Auburn, Ky. Now headed in the correct direction, Hammerhead disclosed his intent. “We are heading to the Shaker community at South Union.”

. The Shakers were 19th century communal society. They were celibate, believed in racial and gender equality and freedom from prejudice. They lived their lives through a quest for simplicity and perfection in design and craftsmanship. Shaker-made goods are some of the most sought after antiques in the world.


Best known for its Centre House dwelling space, South Union was an active community from 1807 to 1922. At one time, the commune had 225 buildings and 6,000 acres of land. The 3 ½ story Centre House was built from handmade brick and hand-hewn limestone. It even had limestone gutters. There were separate living spaces for men and women. Two staircases leading to the same landing, but one was used by the women, one by the men. Betty Lou was surprised at how small the beds were and how barren the rooms.

Shaker Museum at South Union preserves the site, which features a large collection of Shaker furniture and fabrics.

South Union was a bit different from other Shaker communities in the United States because of its accommodations for the “people of the world,” including a 1869 tavern and inn built on a nearby railroad junction. The tavern was built as a business venture.
Among the 19th century dignitaries who visited were President James Monroe, President Andrew Jackson, Henry Clay and Sam Houston. Its architecture differs greatly from the stark simplicity of typical Shaker buildings. It features intricate brickwork, an ornate staircase and a columned facade. Visiting the site is a peaceful, calming experience.

“The tour was fascinating,” Betty Lou said. “I had no idea they lived that way.” (I think she was more then a little happy that we were not spending the weekend there though, no plush surroundings to enjoy!)


The Shaker Tavern is owned and operated by the Shaker Museum at South Union and is maintained as a bed and breakfast. It is located 1.25 miles west of the Shaker Museum at South Union on Highway 73 near Auburn, Ky. The Shaker Tavern offers six guest rooms that share a common area on the second floor landing. Accommodations include full breakfast and admission to the Shaker Museum.
We both agree that if you want a peaceful day trip this is a nice venture. Not to far from home but far enough to feel like you got lost in the past for a day.

Operating hours: The Shaker Museum at South Union is open for tours March 1-Nov. 30, 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. Monday-Saturday, and 1 to 4 p.m. Sundays (closed Thanksgiving). During Winter Hours (Dec. 1 Feb. 29), the museum is open for tours from 10 a.m. until 4 p.m. on Tuesday-Saturday, CST. The museum is closed Christmas Eve, Christmas Day, New Year's Eve and New Year's Day.

For updated information, please call 800-811-8379, or 270-542-4167. http://www.shakermuseum.com/

How to get there from Middle Tennessee: Take Interstate 65 North to take exit 20 (Natcher Parkway). From Natcher Parkway, take exit 5 (US-68 / KY-80) and turn left (west) onto US-68 / KY-80. Continue west on US-68 about 10 miles to KY-1466 and turn left onto KY-1466 to the Shaker Museum.

An eating adventure in Kentucky

Speaking of crazy trips to Kentucky, we went cross country with this one so Betty Lou could experience the state’s most unusual restaurant ... Patti’s 1880’s Settlement at Grand Rivers, Ky.

Patti’s is actually a series of three restaurants housed in what was once a little motel in Grand Rivers, population 350. It was started by Patti and Bill Tullar in 1977 as a hamburger joint and ice cream parlor. Since then it’s grown like Topsy into a facility that serves more than 350,000 customers a year and tops the Favorite List of a number of publications. You may have seen about it on Tennessee Crossroads, which is one of our favorite shows by the way.

“OK, what’s the hurry?” Betty Lou asked. She’s not a big fan of my driving, which tends to be a bit “swooshy” on curvy roads. “I want to take you to this restaurant,” I explained, not adding that it was off 1-24 near Fort Campbell.

“Hmmmm, I am starving,” she answered. “It’s not another barbecue joint is it?”

“Well, they may serve barbecue on their huge menu. What I want you to see are the desserts. Bigger than my head,” I told her.

“That’s pretty big,” she said, “but not so appetizing. What do you mean?”

“The pies, the cakes ... they are 10 inches to a foot tall. Huge. And the servings are monstrous too,” I explained.

“I want to experience the pork chops again,” I explained. “I’ve never seen so much food in my life and it is very tasty. We are talking quality and quantity here.”

“Pork chops? I’m not in the mood for that,” Betty Lou said.

“No, you will be ordering the Kentucky Hot Brown,” I told her. “It’s huge with layers of turkey and cheese.”

“We could always split something? Is this the place your parents love?” she asked.

“Yes indeedy. They always stop on their way to the casino,” I said. They go for the shrimp pasta.

Once we arrived, Betty Lou had to agree Patti’s was quite an experience and not quite like any other restaurant we have visited.

Patti’s 1880’s Settlement is about two hours from Nashville and about three miles off I-24. It’s located in Grand Rivers, Ky., at the northern entrance to Land Between the Lakes. Take I-24 to Exit 31. Go south for three miles on 453. Then take the first left, go a quarter mile to the stop sign.

http://www.pattis-settlement.com/index.htm

Tuesday, January 15, 2008

Rainy night adventure on Lookout Mountain


The Rock City lights were beautiful.

When traveling, we either shoot from the hip or sometimes we use an itinerary.

OK, let’s explain it another way. Quite often we only start out with a highway or a particular direction in mind. Other times, we just start out and keep turning right (or left) until we arrive somewhere interesting. However, we have discovered that if we are going some place in particular, it works best if we have an itinerary.

That little piece of paper keeps us focused so that we don’t get too sidetracked.

On our recent weekend trip to Chattanooga, that itinerary let us do lots of things downtown without wandering willy-nilly.

When we arrived on Friday, our plan called for us to visit internationally famous Rock City so we could see the Enchanted Garden of Lights, a holiday display that features nearly a million lights.

That turned out to be quite an adventure when the overcast skies began to sprinkle.

Both of us had visited Rock City, on top of Lookout Mountain, before but Betty Lou had forgotten about the twisting road up the mountainside. “Oh my,” she exclaimed. “This is where we took the girls in two vans and we could smell my brother’s brakes behind us.”

“Wasn’t that in the Smokies?”

Maybe? Or maybe South Fork? Pike’s Peak?

Well, anyway. We made it up the mountain without incident and the sprinkling stopped ... for a few moments.

Despite being in January, the temperature was warm, but the footing was a bit treacherous as we headed down into the limestone grottoes.

“Didn’t I tell you about my fear of caves?” Betty Lou asked. Her face was about as white as H-haid had ever seen it.

“It’s not a cave, we’re just walking between limestone outcroppings. We’re in the open air.” I laughed and egged her on.

But all bets were off when we reached the narrow “Fat Man’s Squeeze.” We both understand why we need to diet this year!

Not soon enough, we were back on high ground viewing the beautiful lights, reminding us of the displays at the Opryland Hotel.

“Isn’t this beautiful? It looks like Opryland.”

“They don’t have caves at Opryland,” she responded. “Where are we now?”

While Betty Lou is a tad claustrophobic, the ol Hammerhaid doesn't cope with heights. What a pair we make!

It was then he realized that they were near the edge of Lover’s Leap. Swinging bridge fear then cut in. Rock City’s famous swing-a-long bridge is nearly 200 feet long! Don’t think either of us could have gone in that direction!

It was time for a quick retreat and a mug of hot chocolate in front of a crackling fire, thus ending that adventure. Betty Lou's driving skills were in high gear, or should I say "low gear" she was white-knuckling it all the way down that winding, steep dark road. None of my jokes made her laugh, in fact I think she was ready to push me off the next cliff. When we finally got back to our nice comfy room she laughed and was "so happy we did that! (of course we won’t take that road at night again!)

Sunday, January 13, 2008

Good places to eat in Chattanooga


What was the first thing we noticed about the restaurants in Chattanooga?

The servers. Without only one exception, they were nice, friendly and provided excellent service. When you compare the dining experience to (for example) Nashville, Chattanooga’s servers were just superior. They didn’t prod or hurry you and they didn’t keep you waiting on your check forever.

Awesome.

During our weekend, we ate at several places and enjoyed them all. Well, actually that applies more to ol’ Hammerhead.

The Blue Plate

We can agree on our favorite: The Blue Plate, located on Chesnut Street near the Tennessee Aquarium. The restaurant is like an American diner with a contemporary twist. The Blue Plate, owned by Rob Gentry co-creator of the Big River Grille, serves comfort food made from scratch.

Our server, Casey, filled us in the restaurant’s eco-friendly approach. Everything is prepared from fresh ingredients obtained from local producers.

As a homegrown Chattanooga restaurant, The Blue Plate supports local farms and suppliers and serve the best from Bluff View Bakery, Niedlov's Bakery, Coldstone Creamery, River Ridge Farms and Stone Cup Coffee.

We enjoyed breakfast there Sunday morning. I had the ham and cheese omelet with hashbrowns. It was perfectly prepared and was neither bone-dry or rubbery. It was delicious with finely chopped ham and a liberal amount of cheese. The toast was incredible. You forget what bread from a fantastic bakery tastes like.

Betty Lou, predictably, had the french toast. She quickly proclaimed it “the best I have ever had.” And that was no exaggeration.

City Cafe

We tend to like restaurants that a fun and maybe a little crazy. That is why we delighted with Chattanooga’s City Cafe. It is a diner-style restaurant that’s opened 24-hours a day. It has a huge menu that covers just about any type of food from country to Greek.

Our server Sandy was ever so helpful as we scoured the menu that has more than 360 items including deli-style triple layer sandwiches to steaks.

Betty Lou was astonished at her owner of chicken cheese nachos. She declined to be photographed with the towering plate of food. I went tradition with a burger and home fries. The fries were thicker than steak fries and cooked with savory seasoning.

Good, filling food served in a fun atmosphere.

Desserts are the specialty City Cafe. They are custom-baked by “George.” Most of the cakes are a foot high and the variety is endless. Wow!

Big River Grille

Big River started in Chattanooga in the Riverfront district and is still serving up great food and beverages. Once again, our server was fantastic and would answer questions about menu items very candidly. We went for the pepperoni pizza and it was great. Crunchy crust, lots of pepperoni and cheese with a nicely spiced sauce.

Yep, Betty Lou could have lived there.

Sticky Fingers

Located near the Jack’s Alley stop on the Electric Shuttle, Sticky Finders is another homegrown Chattanooga restaurant that is known for having the city’s best ribs.

Betty Lou’s no fan of barbecue, but I made the call and loved the restaurants pulled barbecue with a variety of sauces. The pork was nicely smoked and was fresh and not dried out. Very nice. You could tell the restaurant is very popular with Chattanooga residents.

Betty Lou had the chicken fingers and didn’t particularly like them, but like I always say, “when you go to a B-B-Q joint you should eat barbecue.”

I enjoyed it.

Ever visit Chattanooga?




You’ve probably been to Rock City, Ruby Falls or the Tennessee Aquarium, but have you stayed downtown?

Since the 1990s, Chattanooga has reclaimed its downtown river front district and transformed it to a great place to visit.

With the holidays finally over, we got to slip away for a weekend and stayed at the Historic Read House on Broad Street downtown. It was easy to find and convenient to Interstate 24, which is often our path for our travels.

The Read House is now a Sheraton and a major renovation has been recently completed. What a wonderful job! The historic character of the hotel has been maintained with the addition of all those modern niceties we expect like high speed Internet access, plush comfortable beds and excellent service.

As usual, Betty Lou was dubious. Chattanooga didn’t sound like her kind of getaway. But one look at the hotel lobby started to sway her. It’s a real lobby, spacious with comfortable chairs ... a place where guests meet and converse.

“Just like the movies,” she said.

We had a beautiful room near the top of the hotel with a nice view of downtown. The room was nicely appointed with a comfortable couch, a big ottoman, two TVs, a desk and what Betty Lou described as “the most comfortable bed in the world.”

The hotel, like most modern ones, had a big workout area and a very, very nice indoor pool. It’s a no-edge pool with three waterfalls. There’s also a large whirlpool-spa style pool.

The hotel is also home to a big Starbucks (that’s a plus) and one of Chattanooga’s nicest restaurants, Porter’s Steakhouse. It’s a Chicago-style steakhouse that’s posh and romantic. The chef’s specialty is the Pepperloin, a whole-beef tenderloin marinated for 48 hours and covered with a peppercorn and herb mixture. (www.porterssteakhouse.com)

The Sheraton Reed House is also a very popular venue for weddings and receptions. The Silver Ballroom is beautiful with a classic look that takes you back to glorious times.

The rooms were quiet ... a fact we greatly appreciated. When we were there, a major college basketball tournament was underway. At least two college teams, Wayne State and Murray State stayed there along with their fans, but everyone was quiet and friendly.

One of the greatest advantages of the Read House is that has a stop on the amazing Chattanooga Electric Shuttle. Emission-free, the shuttle is quiet and handicapped accessible. You could ride from the Chattanooga Choo Choo to the Tennessee Aquarium FREE. The convenience was amazing.

We found ourselves hating to leave the Read House.

Betty Lou gave it her highest complement:

“I could live here.”

You should have seen her collection of real estate magazines!

Wednesday, November 21, 2007

Getting away in the Twilight Blue Room



Spring, summer and fall, one of Tennessee’s greatest getaways is Monteagle and the grounds of the Sunday School Assembly.

To most folks, Monteagle Mountain is best known for the steep grade ascending Interstate 24 between Nashville and Chattanooga. It’s the highest point between Chicago and Miami and can be treacherous during winter storms ... just ask Betty Lou.

But for those in the know, Monteagle and its sister city of Sewanee have both been popular retreats since the 1880s.

Ever heard of the Chautauqua movement? We had but thought of it like a touring company of turn of the 19th Century celebrities. Turns out that it was more of a summer camp for entire families generally based around “assembly” grounds.

Chautauqua was a summer camp movement to educate, entertain and enlighten American adults in the days before movies and mass media. It got its name from Lake Chautauqua in southwest New York, where the movement was founded in 1874 by Lewis Miller, an Akron, Ohio, inventor and manufacturer; and John Heyl Vincent, a Methodist minister.

In 1882, the Tennessee Sunday School Convention chartered the Monteagle Sunday School Assembly, selected a mountain top site and opened its first session July 17, 1883.

During its early years the Sunday School Assembly maintained close ties with the Chautauqua Institution in New York. The assembly hoped to train better Sunday school teachers while stressing educational and cultural pursuits. Hmmmmm, that probably leaves us out.

At first only a restaurant and amphitheater were the only structures on the Assembly Grounds, but boarding houses, meeting rooms and private cottages soon followed. Today, many of those turn-of-the century gems remain with the Assembly being one of only eight or nine Chautauquas still around.

Among those boarding houses was a Queen Anne styled Victorian rambler now known as the Edgeworth Inn. Built in 1886, the structure is the oldest, continually operated inn in the Monteagle area. The Edgeworth has been featured on the Travel Channel and in Southern Living magazine because it’s a throwback to bygone days.

We love it because it is so quiet, not to mention cozy and comfortable and a load of other adjectives.

Admittedly, Monteagle is a different place all together on football weekends at the nearby University of the South at Sewanee. Finding accommodations can be tricky then. So we usually aim for an off weekend during the fall. It’s so quiet that you can hear the leaves fall.

And the ever-bubbly Betty Lou even has to tone it down a bit. ;-) For those of you who know her, that is quite an achievement. Shhhhhhhh!

“I could live here,” she smiles. “It’s just so perfect.”

Betty Lou prefers the Twilight Blue Room, which overlooks the Assembly Grounds. She loves its Victorian feel. With a king-sized four-poster bed, the room decorated with blue flowers has a sofa for relaxing, but no TV. The bathroom has a luxurious claw-foot tub.

“No TV, no phones and no pressure. It’s perfect for relaxing. Hammerhead manages to survive without his nightlight (the boob tube) and no computer,” she smiles. “There’s a big library on the ground floor with stacks of books to read. People do read books, you know.”

“Only if they don’t have TV,” Hammerhead grumbles.

Reading and rocking on the inn’s huge front porch is delightful, even on a brisk morning.

Both of us love wandering the assembly grounds. There are so many interesting and unique cottages there. Don't forget your camera. If you want more solitude visit mid-week.

One of our favorite places to eat in the area is Pearl’s Cafe between Monteagle and Sewanee at 15344 Sewanee Highway. A tad pricey, but excellent upscale Southern cuisine is served. Its open evenings only, but has a Sunday brunch. 931-598-9568.

We love The Blue Chair at 41 University Ave. in Sewanee. 931-598-5434. It’s open Monday through Saturday and closed on Sunday. We especially crave breakfast there ... real eggs benedict. Wow. The sandwiches are great too, especially The Blue Chair Club. Order a box lunch and go explore. http://www.Thebluechair.com

Thursday, November 15, 2007

Watertown and its excursion trains



Ever been to Watertown?

Betty Lou never had. In fact she had never heard of the little Wilson County, Tenn. community.

"Watertown?" she said with a dubious tone. I didn't dare mention the "T" word. She doesn't always share my interest in Tennessee railroads.

But Watertown has more going for it than trains.

It's a unique community betwixt Murfreesboro and Lebanon. The town's name seems to hint as its origin as an important steam railroad stop, but actually it refers to Wilson L. Waters, who built a grist mill, sawmill and general store there in the mid 1800s.

But don't misunderstand, Watertown is best known for its railroad connection. This heritage has been kept alive by the Historic Watertown organization and the Tennessee Central Railroad Museum.

Also known for its Mile-Long Yard sales and Watertown Jazz Festival, the community is the terminus for many excursion train events in connection with the Tennessee Central Railroad Museum, such as Valentine Murder Mystery, Easter Bunny and Polar Express Trains.

TCRM is an all-volunteer, non-profit organization with the mission of preserving and operating historic railroad equipment. The Museum headquarters is located in the former Tennessee Central Railway's Master Mechanic's office at 220 Willow St. near downtown Nashville. Check out the Web site at http://www.tcry.org/

Watertown is located 40 miles east of Nashville and 10 miles southeast of Lebanon on Highway 70. On Interstate 40, take exit 239A and head south/southeast for nine miles.

But we didn't head to Watertown for a particular event on that beautiful fall Saturday. As often the case, we just headed out a country road. At a junction, a sign pointed to Watertown. There you have it. I knew the story behind the burg, but she didn't.

Once we arrived downtown, I heard the familiar refrain. "Why haven't you taken me there before?"

There was no real reason. Just most of our recent daytrips had ended up on the Highland Rim at places like Monteagle and Burgess Falls. Watertown has some nice antique stores and arts galleries and is much closer to home.

Betty Lou soon discovered Jim's Antiques, a great little shop featuring unique items. They're unique because the owner, Jim, is originally from Maine. (You will have to ask him the story.) But if you are looking for a lobster track in the Middle of Tennessee....

Our favorite cafe discovery was the appropriately named "The Whistle Stop." 615-438-5114. Betty Lou snapped some photos of me with railroad stuff in the background. The burgers and ice tea were great and prices very reasonable.

Another attraction that is drawing people to Watertown is the Stardust Drive-In Theater. See http://www.stardustdrivein.com/

Wednesday, November 14, 2007

'Hoofbeats in the Heartland' exhibit coming

The Sam Davis Home will play host to "Hoofbeats in the Heartland: Civil War Cavalry in Tennessee," a traveling exhibition from the Tennessee State Museum and the Tennessee Civil War National Heritage Area.

The traveling exhibition will grace the Sam Davis Home Museum from Nov. 19 until Jan. 14 with the grand opening strategically planned on Nov. 27, the anniversary of the death of Sam Davis.

Hoofbeats in the Heartland showcases eight significant specialties beginning with an Introduction of Mounted Warfare in 1861. The traveling exhibit progresses through the museum so visitors are able to explore the history of the cavalry leaders, troops, and the reliance on thousands of horses, as well as the spies and scouts who gathered intelligence. Other topics of interest included within Hoofbeats in the Heartland are forms of guerilla warfare, the areas of occupation, battles in Tennessee, as well as the legacy the cavalry soldiers left behind.

Hoofbeats in the Heartland tells a unique story about the Civil War Cavalry in Tennessee and how it affected those who lived and occupied regions of Middle Tennessee. Maps, photographs, graphics, as well as original and reproduction artifacts are used in this exhibit to show the impact of the mounted warfare on the state.

In addition to the traveling exhibition, the Sam Davis Home will be receiving an exciting addition to its museum. Sam Davis’ boot will be moved out of conservation at the State Museum and brought to the historic site, but for a limited time only.

For more information about the opening and the traveling exhibition, please contact the Sam Davis Home at (615) 459-2341. The Sam Davis Home is located at 1399 Sam Davis Road in Smyrna.

Monday, November 12, 2007

Union 'trick' led to Sam Davis' capture


Confederate courier Sam Davis had reason to be wary as he rested in a thicket on the Rain’s farm outside of Nashville.

Union Brig. Gen. Grenville Dodge had the 7th Kansas cavalry looking for members of Coleman’s Scouts, a Confederate spy/courier unit of some 40 to 45 operatives.

Davis, along with his older half-brother John G. Davis, were active members of the unit, which was led by former teacher Henry Shaw, who disguised himself an unkempt, bearded herbal doctor who hobbled along with a limp.

Not all of Colemen’s operatives were men. Confederate sympathizer Mary Kate Patterson, who married John Davis in 1864, played an active role in the spy ring. Her brother, Everard Patterson, was a member of Coleman’s Scouts as well.

Mary Kate Patterson, who lived about nine miles from Nashville off Nolensville Pike, brought Davis his breakfast that Sunday morning in the thicket accompanied by her cousin Robbie Woodruff. He gave the two young women a list of items to purchase in Nashville. Most of the items were intended for Gen. Braxton Bragg, commander of the Confederate Army of Tennessee.

“We found him up, looking as bright as if he had slept all night, and, oh, he did enjoy his good warm breakfast, for we rode fast and had his coffee in a jug to keep it warm,” she wrote in the February 1896 edition of Confederate Veteran. “Two of my little brothers brought our dinner and we spent a nice, pleasant Sunday together – the last he spent on earth but one.”

The following day, a Monday, Davis’s younger brother, Oscar, kept him company while Patterson and Woodruff went to Nashville. After dark, he headed south toward Pulaski.

Davis next stayed at or near the home of Bob English near Lynnville in Giles County where he rendezvoused with Shaw and scouts W.J. Moore and Joshua Brown. Portions of Dodge’s troops were stationed nearby rebuilding the railroad line.

There, Davis on or about Nov. 18, was presented with the document that ultimately led to his death. It was apparently taken from Dodge’s desk by Houston English, who was a young slave of Bob English, while the general was at a meal. Davis hid that document in his boot, which was later cut apart by Union troops. That same boot is part of the collection at Tennessee State Museum in Nashville. A map showing the Union fortifications of Nashville was hidden in his saddle.

Shaw also gave him a letter for Col. A. McKinstry, provost marshal of the Army of Tennessee. A provost marshal was in command of the military police of a unit.

In his waterproof saddlebag were the personal items Mary Kate Patterson and Robbie Woodruff had collected for Gen. Bragg, including six or seven newspapers, toothbrushes, soap and blank writing journals.

It was hoped if Davis was stopped and searched only the items in the saddlebag would be discovered. He was dressed as a Confederate and wore a heavy Union overcoat that had been dyed butternut gray by his mother, Jane Simmons Davis. She had given him the coat when he surreptitiously visited the family home early in November. His father, Charles, cobbled his boots on the same visit.

With so many Union scouts and cavalry active in the area, Shaw instructed Davis to take a more circuitous route to Chattanooga by crossing the Tennessee River near Pulaski. Davis eluded capture once, but Brown and Moore were taken into custody.

Union scouts under the command of Capt. Levi H. Naron, nicknamed Chickasaw, were alert and devious.

Naron, who wrote a book about his own exploits in 1865, was an unlikely Union soldier.

“Chickasaw” was a Newton County, Ga., native who lived in Mississippi for 21 years and was a former slave owner. During the Mexican War, he was a member of the 1st Mississippi Rifles under the command of Col. Jefferson Davis, who later became president of the Confederacy.

Despite this background, Naron was a strong Unionist, who delivered stump speeches denouncing the Confederacy. Surrounded by bitter enemies, he relocated his wife and six children to Illinois and cast his lot with the Union army.

“Chickasaw,” under strict orders to apprehend members of Coleman’s Scouts, dressed his Union scouts as Confederate soldiers.

“While on their return to camp they met a young man dressed in rebel uniform, whom they conscripted for the rebel army. The young man was very indignant at first, and told them they were doing wrong, that he was on special business from General Bragg, all of which was of no avail, my scouts persisted in taking him before their Captain, who could act at his pleasure,” wrote Naron.

That young man was Sam Davis who was attempting to cross the Tennessee River near Minor Hill.

The ruse was over the minute they asked him for his weapons.

“He attempted to escape by putting spurs to his horse, but the scouts were on the watch, and the moment he made the effort one of the men caught his horse by the bridle rein,” Naron said.

Similarly, Shaw, Moore and Joshua Brown were captured and taken to Gen. Dodge for questioning.

“We did not know of the importance of the capture of Shaw, or that he was the Captain Coleman commanding Bragg’s secret service force. Nothing was found on any of the prisoners of importance, except upon Davis, who evidently had been selected to carry the information they had all obtained through to General Bragg,” Dodge said.

“Davis was brought immediately to me, as his captors knew his importance. They believed he was an officer and also knew he was a member of Coleman’s command.”

The general took the first crack at breaking Davis with the goal of locating Coleman and his command.

“Davis met me modestly. He was a fine, soldierly-looking young man, dressed in a faded Federal soldier’s coat, one of our army soft hats and top boots. He had a frank, open face, which was inclined to brightness,” Dodge said.

“I tried to impress upon him the danger he was in, and that I knew he was only a messenger, and held out to him the hope of lenient treatment if he would answer truthfully, as far as he could, my questions,” he said.

Davis, listening intently, gave Dodge no information. Capt. Armstrong, the 16th Division’s provost marshal, then placed Davis in the Pulaski jail with the other prisoners. An undercover Union informant was also added to the cell.

But the captured Confederates didn’t talk amongst themselves.

Dodge, in retrospect, said there were two reasons for the silence.

“They all knew Colonel Shaw was one of our captives, and that if his importance was made known to us he would certainly be hung, and they did not think that Davis would be executed,” he said.

The Confederates were wrong. The life of 21-year-old Sam Davis would soon be forfeit.